Linen, wool, flannel: choosing your cloth by season

The cloth is the first decision, and perhaps the most important. It determines the comfort, the drape and the lifespan of your garment.

Linen, for the heat

Breathable and light, linen is the fabric of hot climates. It creases — that is its nature: this slight disorder is part of its charm.

Tropical wool, all year round

So-called "all-season" or fresco wools, with their open weave, suit most occasions. They are the ideal choice for a first suit.

Flannel, for depth

Thicker and soft to the touch, flannel brings an inimitable texture and depth of colour. It suits cool evenings and air-conditioned environments.

• Everyday wear: Super 110's to 130's wool
• Ceremony: fine wool or mohair for structure and sheen
• Summer: linen or a linen-silk blend